South Africa: Whale Watching, Dolphins & Penguins in Port Elizabeth
- Wibke Helfrich
- Apr 10
- 5 min read
When is the best time for whale watching in South Africa? Where can you see penguins and dolphins in Port Elizabeth/Gqbhera? What is the Sardine Run? You'll find the answers to these questions in this blog post.
Last November, I fulfilled a personal dream and spent a month volunteering in South Africa on a Whale Watching boat with Raggy Charters in Port Elizabeth. Now, in April and May, is the perfect time to watch for whales off the coast of South Africa, as that's when the famous Sadine Run begins - a spectacle that attracts film crews from the BBC and National Geographic every year.
South Africa Whale Watching Port Elizabeth
What is the Sardine Run?
This natural phenomenon is considered one of the greatest marine spectacles in the world. The South African sardine spawns in the cool waters of the Agulhas Bank (the ocean region where the warm Indian Ocean and the cold Atlantic Ocean meet) off the southern Cape coast so that the males can fertilize the eggs. The eggs are then driven out to sea until the young are fully grown and strong enough. Then millions of sardines make their way up the east coast in large shoals . Scientists believe the sardines are set in motion when a cold ocean current moves east from the Agulhas Bank. This current is rich in plankton, the animals' main food. The huge shoals of sardines can be up to 15 kilometers long, three and a half kilometers wide and 40 meters deep , making them easily visible from the water's surface. They are easy prey for South Africa's top marine predators.
When I was there in November, there was only a “mini” Sardine Run, but I still found that very impressive.
Click on the first image to see photos of the animals you can observe off Port Elizabeth.
Shortly after our ship, My Bru, leaves the harbor, we see a shimmer on the water. Excitement spreads throughout the boat. With bated breath, we watch the millions of fish gliding across the sea like a silver carpet. Suddenly, the first birds appear.
“Cape gannets can dive into the water at 120 km/h to fish”
calls out my colleague Purity, who works as a marine guide on the boat, “ They have special airbags in their faces to protect them from impact.” They are not alone - Cape cormorants, terns and shearwaters are flying with them. Together they bombard the surface of the water. Within seconds the silver carpet transforms into bubbling chaos . This is because the large school of sardines that is staying close to the surface is quickly attacked by hungry predators. Now you can also see African penguins and dolphins , which are rounding up the fish to make them easier to eat. As soon as the feeding frenzy sets in, the startled sardines give off a strong smell that alerts other nearby predators. Bottlenose dolphins and hammerhead sharks have already joined the action, and last of all the Bryde's whales arrive . With their mouths wide open they break the surface of the water to take in water and food.
We don't know where to look first - something spectacular is happening everywhere in the bubbling sea.
This species of whale, which can be found year-round in Algoa Bay, is normally rather shy. But during the "feeding frenzy ," as the big feast during the sardine run is called, all shyness is forgotten.
The little African penguin is in great danger!
A small part of Algoa Bay has been declared a marine protected area and is part of the Addo Elephant Park, which, since its expansion with the coastal Woody Cape Nature Reserve, is currently the third largest in the country, covering 170,000 hectares, after the Kruger National Park and the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park. Since 2005, several island groups have also been part of the national park.
The boat approaches St. Croix, a bare rock in the surf.
“Look, there were so many penguins on the island 25 years ago, when the photo was taken from exactly here” the passengers look shocked from the photo in which the island is covered in penguins to the island of today, with only a few of the animals visible.
There are several reasons why the African penguin is threatened with extinction. Today, the penguins are primarily threatened by competition from commercial fishing .
"We believe that this has caused 60 percent of St. Croix's penguin population to disappear in the last six years alone."
Lloyd Edwards, owner of Raggy Charters, explains this as the boat slowly circles the island. Another current threat is oil pollution. A penguin with even a drop of oil on its feathers loses its insulation against the cold seawater and eventually dies of hypothermia. Just five years ago, there was an oil spill in the nearby Port of Ngqura, a huge deep-water port built 15 years ago right next to the marine reserve.
From killer to victim
Great white sharks also normally swim in these waters. But in a country where corruption is rampant, these animals are unfortunately still hunted, even though it is strictly prohibited. The crew frequently catches boats hunting them. Cage diving with great white sharks is also usually offered in the summer. Unfortunately, sightings of them have become increasingly rare along this coast in recent years.
When is the best time for whale/dolphin watching?
Bryde's whales can be observed all year round.
The best time for humpback whales is July/August and November/December.
Southern right whales can be observed giving birth in Algoa Bay from July to October . Southern right whales can also often be observed from the shore.
Three different species of dolphins
Bottlenose dolphins are the most commonly observed dolphins in the bay and can be seen year-round in groups of 10 to 400 animals.
Common dolphins are a spectacular sight, swimming at high speed in groups of 1,000 to 2,000. These dolphins are often seen from January to June , following large schools of baitfish migrating through the bay.
There are also Sousa's dolphins , also known as humpback dolphins. They can be found in small groups of 1 to 20 animals, especially during the summer months .
Bear in mind that this is nature, so there can be no guarantee of sightings.
Info:
General information about South Africa can be found here .
Arrival:
Flights to Gqeberha with a change in Johannesburg are available from 560€, for example with Condor or Lufthansa .
Rental car for a week from 110€ e.g. at www.billiger-mietwagen.de .
Stay overnight:
Most accommodations and restaurants are located around Marine Drive.
No. 4 Boutique Beach House is located 600 meters from Hobie Beach. The property features tastefully furnished rooms, a garden, and a pool. Double rooms with breakfast start from €100 per night.
Those who would like to spend the night in a truly exclusive lighthouse can do so on the storm-swept sandy beach of Cape Recife . The lighthouse has been converted into a tastefully furnished accommodation with two bedrooms, a living room, a kitchen, and a bathroom. Spectacular views included.
From 250 € per night.
Eat:
Barney's Beachfront is a cozy pub right on Shark Rock Pier. It offers a wide selection of beer and wine, pizza, and burgers.
Located on the waterfront, Ginger Restaurant in Gqeberha offers fine dining and cocktails .
Experience:
In April/May, the famous Sardine Run takes place off the coast. Being there at this time is a unique experience.
This whale watching tour can be booked with Raggy Charters (preferably via WhatsApp.
Tel +27 73 152 2277 or via https://www.raggycharters.co.za/ ).
Danger!
The Eastern Cape is also called the Cape of Wind. The waves can be quite high. Those who tend to get nauseous on the ship should take seasickness tablets beforehand.