In the Troodos Mountains on Cyprus there are eleven painted churches that are part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site. A scenic hike leads to the most beautiful one: the Panagia tis Asinou from the 12th century. You can find everything you need to know about it, including GPS data, here.
The Troodos Mountains are considered the green heart of Cyprus
What we didn't know before the trip: The island is amazingly green (at least in spring). The Troodos Mountains, which are forested in contrast to the rest of the island, are considered the green heart of Cyprus and, with all their foothills, take up about a third of the area. We were also completely surprised by the ancient tree population: In the Troodos - the "Black Forest" of Cyprus - the endemic alder-leaved oaks grow as well as Aleppo pines, pines, plane trees, cedars and holm oaks. Hike Cyprus Panagia tis Asinou Painted Church
A beautiful hike in the foothills of the Troodos Mountains in Cyprus leads through lush pine forests to the barn-roofed painted church of Panagia tis Asinou . The trail starts in the picturesque village of Agios Theodoros and ends at the famous barn-roofed church of Asinou, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its impressive 12th-century frescoes. The fully painted barn-roofed church is a jewel of Byzantine art. The wall paintings inside the church date from the 12th to the 17th centuries and reflect the art of Constantinople. The gable roof, typical of the region, protects the oldest surviving frescoes in Cyprus. Along the way, you can enjoy wonderful views of the north side of the island and the vast plain of Mesaoria, one of the most fascinating landscapes in the region.
Before visiting, be sure to ask whether the church is open!
Unfortunately, we cannot admire the paintings because the church is closed. The priest has an appointment with the dentist.
To compensate, the next day we visit another painted church to admire the frescoes.
Here we are no longer dealing with gods, but with God, because in the mountain villages there are numerous Orthodox churches with Byzantine frescoes that are part of the world cultural heritage. From the outside, the churches, some of which are almost a thousand years old, look like ordinary barns - no decorations, no bell towers give any idea of the skill with which the Byzantine-style wall paintings were created inside.
The gods must be crazy!
But there are also incredible stories here (see my other blog posts about Cyprus ): While we admire the frescoes of saints and donors, an employee of the Orthodox Church tells us that at the time of Corona, the bishop had forbidden people to get vaccinated. Anyone who got vaccinated would grow horns and a tail. The man does not want to be named, but he grins and says that he hasn't grown anything yet.
Hike from Agios Theodoros to the barn church of Asinou in Cyprus:
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Walking time : 2:00 h
Altitude : 184 m up and down
Length : 5.8 km
Accessible by public transport?
No.
Stop for a break along the way? In Agios Theodoros and (only during the season) at the church.
GPS data: I have uploaded the GPS data for the hike to the Outdoor Active website
Start and end point: Agios Theodoros
Directions: From Pafos on the A6 towards Pissouri, then continue on the B9 into the Troodos Mountains. On the F975 to the starting point of the hike in Agios Theodoros.
Parking: There are sufficient parking spaces available in Agios Theodoros.
Hiking guide: Rolf Goetz: Cyprus – South & North, The most beautiful coastal and mountain hikes , Rother Bergverlag, 2023.
Attention! The opening and closing times as well as the entrance prices are subject to change without notice. The church was also closed when we visited. Be sure to call in advance!
Phone: +357 99 830 329
Opening hours: All year round from Monday to Saturday: 9:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Sundays and public holidays: 11:00 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. Closed on Christmas Day, New Year's Day and Easter Sunday (Greek Orthodox Easter).
Directions
From the start of Agios Theodoros, walk a short distance towards the town centre before the nature trail towards Asinou is signposted on the left. The path leads slightly uphill past a cemetery. Soon the path becomes narrower and winds through pine forests up to the Selladi Zevxis pass. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Karamania Mountains in Turkey from here.
If you want, you can climb the holy mountain of Zeus (Moutti tou Thkia) from here as a circular route variant . Or you can go straight down to the Byzantine church of the Virgin Mary of Asinou (Panagias tis Forvotissas) with its rich and ancient history.
The way back is the same if you do not choose the circular hike.
Further information and links
The Visit Cyprus website provides useful information on accommodation, events and activities.
Here you can find all my blog posts about Cyprus
WEATHER
Cyprus has an intense Mediterranean climate with long, dry summers (from mid-May to mid-October) and mild winters (from December to February). Cyprus is blessed with sunshine. Even in December and January there are six to eight hours of sunshine per day. In the summer months, however, the average is 11.5 hours!
February to May and September to October are the best months for hiking
ARRIVAL
Lufthansa flies nonstop from Munich to Paphos once a week. Ryanair flies twice a week from Memmingen.
If you want, you can offset the CO2 emissions of your flight, for example through Atmosfair.
CARDS
The publisher Kartographos has three hiking maps at a scale of 1:25,000: Tróodos, Tóchni, Akámas.
EQUIPMENT
For most hikes, light hiking shoes or trail running shoes are sufficient. For the Avakas Gorge, hiking sandals and hiking poles are helpful. Take enough refillable water bottles with you.