Malta, Gozo and Comino is a sunny Mediterranean winter climbing destination with over 2,000 routes (including 700 sport routes and 1500 self belay routes).
The rocky terrain and sheer cliffs that characterize much of the Maltese archipelago provide ideal climbing terrain - from traditional rock climbing and sport climbing to bouldering and deep water soloing. The Mediterranean islands also score with good weather all year round.
Here is a brief description of the four sectors we climbed in Malta and Gozo.
There are no great photos - there were only two of us 😉
Twin Caves, Malta< /u>
On the first day we stayed at the Twin Caves just above the coast of Malta. The location is quite spectacular and the sport routes were also ok secured. However, with a few exceptions, the routes are not particularly long. Here are three tours I can recommend:
Le Poseur 6C is probably called that because you can climb so decoratively on the edge of the cave🙃. We also liked Kerbside Warrior 6a on the other side of the cave and Scoop and Arête 6b.
The coast is definitely also ideal for an "after climb" walk.
Wied Babu, Malta (photo right)
Wied Babu is a dry stream bed and offers some shade even on hot days. I found the tours in Sector Diamond Buttres a bit slimy due to the high humidity. The tours are around 20 meters long.
The climbing area Mġarr ix-Xini is located in a huge valley. At first we had some problems finding the entrance, because you park above and then have to get off. We were at the Champagne Walls not because there was anything to drink here, but some 6bs that were nice and long too - perfect terrain for my sister. For me it only got 5C+ for Dirty Girls in the lead 😉.
The best thing about the location was the Tower of Power“ fallen on Gozo
In February, the individually exposed tower stood in a sea of flowers over the real sea. The routes on the right side are not quite as overhanging and were therefore climbable for us 6a-6c. On the other side of the tower there is everything the ambitious climber dreams of - routes from 7a-8a.
Info:
General information is available at www.visitmalta.com.
The climbing guide ” as a book is from 2013
We got by with the old climbing guide and The Crag. Although I have to admit that my sister made the sector selection - I was more responsible for the hikes.
You can also check the following sites for tour updates:
Best time:
The ideal time to visit is from October to May. In summer it can get uncomfortably hot, especially on the south-facing rocks - but deep water soloing is a lot of fun.
Getting around:
There are direct flights from Frankfurt to Malta with Lufthansa, for example. Ryanair will fly from Karlsruhe/Baden-Baden from the end of March.
Alternatively, you can also travel by ferry. Twice a day between Marsa (near Valletta) and the town of Pozzallo in southern Sicily.
www.virtuferries.com (English).
The public express bus lines X1, X2, X3 and X4 connect the airport to the main destinations on the island. www.publictransport.com.mt (English). In addition to the range of taxis and rental cars, Malta Transfers offers collective and individual transfers to many hotels. www.maltatransfer.com (German).
In Malta, traffic drives on the left. Rental car price comparison, e.g. at: www. billiger-mietwagen.de.
Malta and Gozo are linked by a car and passenger ferry. It runs approximately every 45 minutes and no reservation is required. www.gozochannel.com (English).
Sleeping:
The hosts of Talbot & Bons have converted a 400-year-old farm in Malta into a small, charming B&B with twelve individual rooms. https://talbotbons.com/ Double rooms from €80.
In the heart of Gozo at the foot of the Victoria Citadel lies the Casa Gemelli Boutique Guesthouse. The twin sisters Anna and Sonia run the house with great attention to detail and serve excellent breakfasts. To book via Tel: +356 2155 9067 or booking.com, double rooms from €100.
On Gozo we had, via Airbnb booked an apartment in the middle of the old town. You can reach it only on foot and not park in front of the house. But it is wonderfully quiet and lovingly renovated. There are several apartments here:
Food:
Colorful chairs, rickety tables, quirky memorabilia - which doesn't sound glamorous at all, served as the location for Angelina Jolie and Brad Pitt for "By the Sea" - and guests today as a very good seafood restaurant. Café Mgarr ix-Xini, Gozo in the bay of the same name in front of Xewkija Tel: +356 7955 3691